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Now you can better appreciate why a solid reference book and a
little research are recommended as first steps. There's a
lot to consider, so let's examine each of these factors individually
and in depth.
- Purpose. Where will you be wearing this kilt?
Is it intended for certain occasions only? Are you a member
of a clan, or do you have a specific clan tartan in mind?
Some Scottish clans have seven or more tartan designs,
each intended for a different purpose. For example,
most clans have a tartan variation designed specifically
for more formal occasions; a clan's dress tartan
contains more white than the other variations.
If a clan's color scheme is predominantly yellow,
red, or another bright color, which could be a liability
on a hunt, the clan will typically have a hunting tartan
design that is primarily green in color. As you might
expect, no separate hunting tartan is offered in the
case of clans whose main color is already green.
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Material. Worsted wool is the reliable standard choice,
but theoretically any material stout enough to maintain
a sharp pleat could be used. With this
requirement in mind, you are pretty much restricted to the following fabrics:
wool, twill weave, stout canvas, or heavyweight denim. Other non-wool fabrics,
as well as lighter weight wool, saxony, or plain weave, should be avoided at
all costs. Reducing costs by choosing cheap, too-light material is one of the
worst decisions a first-time kilt buyer can make.
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Fabric Weight. The most widely available fabric weights range from 10 - 16 ounces per yard. Generally speaking, heavier fabric makes a better kilt. Many kiltmakers' rule of thumb is for clients to get the heaviest weight of wool they can afford.
Some people select a fabric weight based on regional climate, which doesn't always work out well. After all, if the weather is fiery hot or bitterly cold, you are sure to be too hot or too cold regardless of your kilt. Keep climate considerations largely out of your decision-making process.
Predictably, weight choices can be dependent on the design you are choosing; some tartans are not available in a full range of weights. Your kiltmaker or seller can provide you with the fabric weights available for the tartan you have selected. If you are dead-set on a particular tartan and your choice of weight is not available, there is always the option of having it custom-woven to your specifications. In matters of weight, rely upon
the advice of your kiltmaker; his objective is to supply you with a kilt whose fabric weight matches your needs.
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Fabric Design. In the earlier
days of kilts, solid colors and tweeds were rather
more common than
they are today, when clan tartans predominate.
There are more than 5,500 tartans all told, so if
you are
starting from scratch, it takes a bit of time
and effort to discover your preferences and narrow
the field down
to a reasonable number. If you have a clan affiliation,
your choices may be simplified; but considering
some clans have upwards of seven tartans from which
to choose,
you may still have a few decisions in front of you.
Bear in mind that you don't have to be a clan
member to wear a certain clan tartan. You don't
need to get anyone's permission, and nobody will
give a royal hoot one way or another. Choose a design
and color scheme you like and will enjoy wearing.
Another helpful tip is to avoid selecting a fabric
design based on the colors of an online image or even
a photo print, due to the high probability of discrepancies
in color matching. It's worth the wait to have
your mill or kiltmaker ship you a swatch of cloth for
your examination; making a decision based primarily
on how the colors display on your computer monitor may
turn out no better than ordering yardage sight unseen.
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Fabric Colors. The
subject of color has been touched upon above. To summarize,
your clan of interest
may offer tartans in several different styles:
several “regular” versions,
a dress variation (with more white in it), a hunting
tartan (with more green), in addition to three
color schemes known as ancient, modern, and weathered.
The ancient, modern, and weathered color schemes are
the same tartan, dyed in distinctive hues. The modern
or standard versions feature rich, bold colors. The
ancient variations are more subdued, and look a bit
faded. Finally, the weathered scheme takes fading to
the extreme, with a distressed effect similar to that
seen in a pair of “stonewashed” denim jeans.
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Pleating Style. The typical gentleman's
kilt is fashioned from an average of eight yards
of cloth, which in turn is knife-pleated. If you prefer
a box-pleated kilt, check with your kiltmaker
about
whether he offers that option.
Your kilt can either be pleated to stripe or pleated to sett. In
a kilt that has been pleated to sett—the more common option
of the two—the pattern of the tartan continues uninterrupted
across the pleats. The pleated to stripe option is most commonly
used in military dress; at the time of your order, you can
designate any stripe in the tartan pattern, and the kiltmaker will
arrange the fabric in such a way that each pleat is centered on the
chosen line.
1 | 2 | 3 | > Next: The Kiltmaker-Client Relationship
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